Paver Calculator
Paver counts, base gravel, and setting sand for patios and walkways.
- Patio area
- 240 sq ft
- Pavers
- 504
- Base rock (cy, 4" compacted)
- 3.56
- Setting sand (cy, 1")
- 0.74
Includes 5% waste
Includes 20% compaction allowance
How to calculate pavers, base, and sand
A paver patio is three material orders: the pavers themselves, the base rock that goes under them, and the setting sand that levels them. Each has its own math, and getting any of them wrong shows up as either a wasted delivery or a job you have to leave to run to the yard.
For pavers, calculate the patio area in square feet, convert to square inches by multiplying by 144, and divide by the coverage of one paver in square inches. A 20 by 12 foot patio is 240 square feet, or 34,560 square inches. Using 6x12 pavers (72 square inches each), that is 34,560 / 72 = 480 pavers. Add five percent for cut waste at the edges and border and order 504.
For base rock, plan on four inches of compacted dense-graded aggregate under the patio. Volume is patio area times depth in feet, divided by 27. A 240 square foot patio at 4 inches deep is 240 x (4/12) / 27 = 2.96 cubic yards. Order about 3.5 cubic yards to account for compaction losses of roughly 20 percent.
For setting sand, plan on exactly one inch of masonry sand screeded between the compacted base and the pavers. 240 square feet at 1 inch is 0.74 cubic yards, or about one cubic yard delivered.
Paver sizes, patterns, and border courses
Standard concrete pavers come in a handful of common sizes. The 4x8 brick paver is the classic small-scale unit and installs quickly in a running bond or herringbone pattern. The 6x6 square paver is common as a border or accent. The 6x12 paver is the workhorse for larger patios because it covers more area per unit while still feeling human-scaled.
Large-format pavers like 12x12, 12x24, and 24x24 have become the design trend in modern hardscape because they create a cleaner, more contemporary look with fewer joints. They install faster per square foot but are less forgiving of an imperfect base; any base low spot shows up as a rocking paver you have to lift and reset.
Pattern choice affects waste. A running bond or stack bond is the lowest-waste pattern at about five percent. Herringbone at 45 degrees is closer to fifteen percent because of the corner cuts. A soldier course border, which is a row of pavers set on end around the perimeter, adds material and labor but is worth the effort because it locks the field pavers in place and gives a finished edge.
Base preparation and edge restraint
The single biggest cause of paver failure is under-compacted base. Loose base rock dumped in the excavation and struck level with a rake settles unevenly under load. Compacted base rock, placed in two or three lifts and compacted to about 95 percent of maximum density with a plate compactor, becomes the permanent foundation the whole patio rides on.
The correct sequence: excavate to a depth equal to the paver thickness plus one inch of sand plus four inches of compacted base plus another inch or two to allow for organics in the topsoil. Compact the subgrade before placing any base. Place the base in two lifts, compact each lift, then screed one inch of masonry sand over the compacted base using two lengths of 1-inch electrical conduit as screed rails.
Edge restraint is what keeps the perimeter pavers from creeping outward over time. Plastic paver edging pinned with 10-inch spikes into the compacted base is the standard. Aluminum edging is a premium alternative. Concrete curbing is the highest-end option. Whatever you use, install it before you sweep the joint sand.
Joint sand, polymeric sand, and long-term maintenance
Once the pavers are laid, sweep polymeric jointing sand into the joints. Polymeric sand contains a binder that activates when wet, holding the sand in place and preventing weed growth in the joints. Sweep the sand in, use a leaf blower to clear the surface, then mist the patio with water per the polymeric sand manufacturer's instructions.
Traditional dry-swept jointing sand is a lower-cost alternative but requires re-topping every year or two as sand washes out. Polymeric sand at first pass costs more per bag but pays for itself in maintenance saved.
Long-term, a paver patio benefits from a light re-sanding every five to seven years and a sealing pass every three to five years if the homeowner wants to preserve color and repel stains. Both are simple maintenance jobs, and offering them as an add-on service is a straightforward way to keep customer relationships alive for years after the initial install.
For hardscape and landscape contractors
Paver patios, walkways, driveways, and pool decks are search-driven work. Peak Local Leads builds and ranks local hardscape sites for one contractor per Texas market. Seven day free trial on the calls, flat monthly after, no per-lead fees. Ask us if your area is open.
Frequently asked.
- How many pavers do I need for a 200 sq ft patio?
- 200 sq ft is 28,800 sq in. Using 6x12 pavers (72 sq in each), that is 400 pavers. Add 5% waste and order 420.
- How much base gravel do I need under pavers?
- Four inches of compacted dense-graded aggregate is standard for a patio. For a driveway, use six to eight inches. Add 20% to the calculated volume to account for compaction losses.
- How much sand goes under pavers?
- Exactly one inch of ASTM C-144 masonry sand, screeded flat over the compacted base. Thicker beds rut and shift over time.
- Do I need polymeric sand between pavers?
- It is not required but it is worth it. Polymeric sand locks joints, blocks weed growth, and dramatically reduces maintenance compared to traditional dry-swept jointing sand.
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